Chiller Specs:
- 3/4HP High Efficiency Chiller
- 7,500 BTU/hr
- 56 dBA (fairly quiet)
- 110 – 120 Volts / 450 Watts / 3.9 Amps
- 17”W x 15”D x 13”H
- 49 Pounds
- Built in Pump
- 10' power cord with GFCI protection
- Rain Proof* (*disconnect chiller and drain completely when ambient temps are freezing or below to prevent damage to chiller)
- 1 Year Product Warranty
- Proudly made in the USA
Whether you are new to cold therapy or a seasoned pro, you are likely doing it for the benefits that exposure to cold offers rather than the physical workout you’ll get from lugging all the ice needed to keep up with it. Lets face it – keeping up with the amount of ice needed to keep a ice bath cold can get to be quite the burden. Our chiller will keep your ice bath cold effortlessly, this should lead to more consistent and frequent usage. Make the most out of your ice bath by turning it into an iceless bath!
The chiller can reach into the low 40F’s, even down into high 30F’s with the right conditions. Ambient temps and sun exposure account for the majority of the heat load on a cold therapy tub (your body heat is insignificant compared to the sun). Reducing the external heat load will improve chiller performance. Low to mid 40F’s should be possible on a most +/-100 gallons setup even in full sun / less than ideal conditions. Our cold therapy chillers can be used indoors and outdoors, except in freezing conditions
Cost to Run (lower than most expect):
At $0.12/KWh the monthly cost of operation should be around $18-$28/month. The compressor and fan only turn on when cooling is needed, once the water reaches your set point they turn off and only the low wattage pump continues to run.
A common question we get revolves around setting the chiller up on a timer. Ideally you’ll want to keep the water cold at all times. There’s a few reasons for this –
Cold water keeps bacteria (slimy walls) largely under control by slowing or stopping their growth. This significantly reduces the amount of maintenance needed to keep your water clean for longer periods of time. This means less frequent water changes and that much lower levels of sanitizer being an effective doses (chlorine/hydrogen peroxide/etc).
If you are using it on a regular basis the amount of potential power savings will be fairly insignificant, the heat it would gain in the “off” period still needs to be removed when you turn it back on. So if running is normally cost $18-$28/month you might be able to save $3-$5/month. However have to change water and the filter more often so it is unlikely to be a net cost savings.
When you cut power to the chiller you also cut power to the pump. Pumps get the most wear and tear during startup, that’s when a pump is most likely to fail as well. Cycling the power to the chiller is just adding unnecessary wear and tear to the pump.
*Please note your setup needs to gravity prime to the pump, the pump is not capable of self priming/suction. Place the chiller within 3' of the drain of your tub, the bottom of the chiller should be at the same or lower height compared to the bottom of your tub – do not elevate the chiller above the tub. An overly long tubing run from the tub drain to the chiller inlet may cause the pump to fail to move enough water.V
